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Vacation help - Bozeman, MT in October

Pokes15

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I took advantage of Southwest's 40th anniversary sale and bought the family tickets to Bozeman, MT during fall break this year. We've never been, so we're trying to plan on schedule for a fairly tight window of fun. We arrive in Bozeman Thursday morning, and fly out Monday mid afternoon.

Is it worth driving the 5 hrs up to Glacier national park? We were definitely planning on going to Yellowstone since its only a couple hours away, but Glacier seems pretty awesome.

Any other suggestions, recommendations?
 
Glacier is awesome. Need to make sure the Road to the Sun will be open during your time. If not, I wouldn’t mess with Glacier.

Agreed.

Also, as fair warning, there’s a reason Bozeman has recently picked up the nickname BozeAngeles in recent years.

If you want to escape to a beautiful place with limited people you might want to venture a ways from Bozeman.

Yellowstone is a great plan but many park services shut down at the end of September. Make sure you look into that so your expectations are in line.
 
Also, make sure, if you are visiting a National Park of some kind, that you aren't required to have reservations beforehand. Wife and I are hitting up Rocky Mt National in September and they require reservations now. Yellowstone is the same AND they had some recent entrance construction, so double-check on which one should you all make it down that way.
 
Also, make sure, if you are visiting a National Park of some kind, that you aren't required to have reservations beforehand. Wife and I are hitting up Rocky Mt National in September and they require reservations now. Yellowstone is the same AND they had some recent entrance construction, so double-check on which one should you all make it down that way.

The good news is that by October the reservation system should also shut down for the winter. But each park is different and RMNP is some point after October 1st, but not late in the month (I always forget when exactly).
 
I took advantage of Southwest's 40th anniversary sale and bought the family tickets to Bozeman, MT during fall break this year. We've never been, so we're trying to plan on schedule for a fairly tight window of fun. We arrive in Bozeman Thursday morning, and fly out Monday mid afternoon.

Is it worth driving the 5 hrs up to Glacier national park? We were definitely planning on going to Yellowstone since its only a couple hours away, but Glacier seems pretty awesome.

Any other suggestions, recommendations?

Glad you coming up. Early October is special relative to fall color and Yellowstone will be a place to witness the Elk rut and corresponding bugle. It is also a great time to see bears (both Grizzley and Black) as they will by foraging for calories before hibernation. Most high country species including RM Sheep and Mountain Goats should be coming out of the high country with early snows by then. A note, some park roads may be closed for the season should early snows arrive or road construction is prolonged.

Most likely Beartooth Highway from Red Lodge to Cooke City will be closed for the season due to snows and road construction completion at lower elevation.

Teton should be a planned stop as the color there is spectacular. If time and plans permit, a day on the river with the fall trout rise is my favorite time to fish. Of course that can be subject to early weather. The Yellowstone River in the Paradise Valley, along with the Gallatin River between West Yellowstone and Gallatin Canyon are my favorite places to drop a fly that time of year.

Glacier attendance is dicey due primarily to early weather closures on Going To Sun and park entrance limitations. This reservation model has been in place since Covid restrictions were lifted. It has been a giganic pain in the ass for vacation planning and locals. Call ahead before making the trek. Also be aware, hotels will still have spiked prices and you will probably see room rate approaching Stillwater gameday weekend pricing if not more.

One other thing to mention, check UM and MSU football schedules for home games. Getting rooms on gameday weekends in Bozement or Missoula is a non-starter if you have not made reservations.

Bozeman, Missoula, and Swan Valley going toward Kalispell are all great stops for food, shopping and incredible beauty.

Hope you enjoy your stay....we love this place. Yellowstone/Teton for me are God's Cathedral.
 
Agreed.

Also, as fair warning, there’s a reason Bozeman has recently picked up the nickname BozeAngeles in recent years.

If you want to escape to a beautiful place with limited people you might want to venture a ways from Bozeman.

Yellowstone is a great plan but many park services shut down at the end of September. Make sure you look into that so your expectations are in line.

Absolutely correct....but Old Faithful and Lake Yellowstone have been staying open until mid-October. Lodging their is not going to happen but stores should be open. I believe Mammoth Hot Springs Lodging is still closed due to the flooding last year, extensively damaged sewer and water systems. However Gardner and West Yellowstone lodging should be available for day supplies and picnics. One other option for staying near the North Entrance. Chico Hot Springs near Emigrant is a favorite of ours. They have a hot springs and pool that is the best we have found. Dining experience in the restaurant is considered 5 star and the saloon for beers and pub food can't be beat.
 
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The good news is that by October the reservation system should also shut down for the winter. But each park is different and RMNP is some point after October 1st, but not late in the month (I always forget when exactly).
Yeah, we should be good in early September.
 
Thanks everyone. We're coming up Oct 19th - 22nd. Will there be a pretty good chance that Road to the Sun will be closed by then? We'll have my 12 year old twins and my 8 year old. Planning on hitting up the museum in Bozeman because my youngest loves dinosaurs. Other than that we just plan on exploring whatever we can access for next few days.

@killmnl @trapped_in_tx @EvilPOKES
 
We likely will for a night, or two. Hook us up my man :)

Edit: hotel recs too if you got.
I have an old e-mail somewhere that I sent with some recs, lemme dig it up and post it here in a few minutes.

My folks have had a summer home in Estes for 30 years, so we love going up there. Unfortunately, it means I don't know what to recommend for hotels. The Stanley Hotel is cool, but a little overpriced. Things generally slow down a little in Estes after Labor Day, but I would recommend jumping on a hotel/motel reservation soon just in case.
 
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We likely will for a night, or two. Hook us up my man :)

Edit: hotel recs too if you got.

Penelope's
On the west end of the main street in downtown Estes. Very good burgers and home cut fries. An Estes staple that's been there for 30+ years through one or two ownership changes. On the pricier end, but it's worth it (IMHO).

Bighorn Restaurant
A little further west past downtown on the main street (maybe 1/4 mile) than Penelope's. A breakfast staple for 30+ years. Standard diner fare at very reasonable prices (less than Denver in some respects). A little inconsistent at times but they generally have the best hashbrowns I've had (taste like pure butter when made right). If you all like pancakes, you're in luck - they're large and fluffy. Off menu special that I generally get is a #8 (hashbrowns, eggs, and toast/biscuit). There's a #7 and a #9 that are also off menu, but I'm drawing a blank as to what they involve (I think the #9 involves pancakes). Bighorn's food isn't otherworldly (except for the hashbrowns), but it's good food at a very reasonable price for a tourist town.

Smokin Dave's
Out on the SW side of town, maybe 10 minutes from downtown Estes. Neither the Mrs. nor I pretend to recognize good BBQ, but this is the best BBQ we've ever had in Colorado. The Estes location is the original one, but they've slowly expanded south into the Denver area in the last few years. Their beans are phenomenal. I would also recommend the beef brisket, pulled pork, chicken, cornbread, jalapeño hushpuppies, and fries. Brisket is my favorite but it's occasionally a little dry. Mrs. and the kids also like the cinnamon spiced apples a lot as a side (just not my thing). If you like things with a little heat, their spicy BBQ sauce is really damn good. There's usually a decent wait to eat in the restaurant, so we almost always order it for pickup. A little on the pricier end as well, but it makes good leftovers.

Mama Rosa's
Italian restaurant that's been open for many years. We've only had it delivered, but I think it's on the eastern edge of downtown Estes near the library. Prices are very high but the food has been very good (the couple of times we've ordered it).

Antonio's
Pizza restaurant that opened around 10 years ago I think. The Mrs. has been following them on social media for several years and it sounds like the owner is a really good guy. We finally tried it two years ago and the pizza is very good, albeit expensive. Not very good with food allergies though (if either of you all have any like my son).

The Post Chicken
I feel weird mentioning this place since it's originally based out of Denver and there's multiple locations in the Denver area, but it's worth a visit if nothing else in town sounds good for dinner. This one is located on the grounds of the Stanley Hotel. Really good fried chicken, mashed potatoes, etc. Great food.

Cinnamon's Bakery
Around 5-10 minutes west of downtown. We haven't personally tried this place yet, but my folks have been obsessed with it since it opened 7 years ago or so. As the name implies, phenomenal cinnamon rolls from what I understand.

Ed's Cantina
I don't know how this place is still in business. Garbage Mexican food - don't let anyone (locals or Google reviews) tell you otherwise. My parents told me it was terrible 25 years ago but I had never tried it. Took the Mrs. there years ago while we were engaged and found out my parents were right. The only highlight of this place (and the reason I mention it here) is that it has a claim to fame involving a lawsuit with the musician Jimmy Buffett. Remind me to tell you the story - kinda funny actually.

Found some more notes about attractions around town. Gimme a few min...
 
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We likely will for a night, or two. Hook us up my man :)

Edit: hotel recs too if you got.
Other places to check out downtown:

Old Fashion Candy Store
I think it changed hands a few years ago after several decades, but from memory the new owners haven't changed much about the store itself. Lots of candy that you and your wife will recognize from your childhood that's more difficult to find nowadays. Always a must stop for us.

Laura's Candies
My memory of the story might be wrong here so I apologize... there used to be a legendary candy shop in Estes in the 80s-90s named Fudgeworks that made homemade fudge, toffee, etc right in front of you. Really damn good stuff. A younger lady named Laura bought the store and continued on the tradition for years. Eventually the store went under or she sold it or something like that. Maybe 5-10 years ago, Laura opened up this place. Still good stuff. At least I think that's the story, but I could be mistaken.

The Taffy Shop
I've never enjoyed salt water taffy, but all my family and relatives have told me their taffy is phenomenal. Lots of different homemade taffy flavors, and you can watch the taffy machines live through the streetside windows.

River/fountain wading
There's a neat little area behind Macdonald Book Shop / The Wheel Bar where the you can wade in a little pool that's fed by the river (probably better in the future if you have kids). Very chilly water, but can be very refreshing on a hot day (unlikely in September haha).

Estes Ark
Shaped like a giant wooden boat 5-10 minutes east of town on Hwy 34 (right across the road from Antonio's that I mentioned earlier). It's probably 35% antiques and collectibles, 65% stuffed animals and little toys for kids. Big store on the inside. Used to be only stuffed animals years ago, but I don't think that fully paid the bills. In any event, it's a neat store to explore.

Ride-A-Kart
Family owned for 40-50 years. A family fun center with go carts, bumper cars, bumper boats, mini golf, etc. Might be a little much for you all without any kids, but it can still be fun regardless. Easy place to make money disappear in a hurry...

Bars
Lonigans and The Wheel Bar are probably the two "happening" bars in downtown Estes. The Wheel Bar is a little bigger/nicer, but we used to primarily go to Lonigans before our kids were born (it feels a little "cozier"). The bar at the Stanley Hotel also has a large selection of whiskey and Scotch available, and can be a nice place to relax in the evening. There's a bar called The Barrel that used to be fully open-air on Moraine Avenue. It's in a building now, but they still leave the garage doors open in the summer. We went there years ago when they were in a different location, so I can't remember if their beer/liquor selection is any good.

Other stores
There's a number of other stores downtown that I can't think of at the moment. Part of the fun of Estes is just wondering in and out of stores to see what cool knick knacks they have.

Some notes on RMNP next...
 
We likely will for a night, or two. Hook us up my man :)

Edit: hotel recs too if you got.
Rocky Mountain National Park:
As mentioned by others already, double-check ASAP if you still need reservations to get into the park. That was something that was new post-COVID. Assuming you have no issues getting in, a few of my favorite spots:

West Horseshoe Park
I don't know that we've ever stopped here, but we've seen tons of elk from our car in this park numerous times. The road through here is generally crowded as it connects the north and south entrances from the Estes side of RMNP.

Bear Lake
The parking lot is only a few hundred feet from the lake, which has a paved path all the way around it. Small elevation changes up and down with lots of opportunities for pictures with good backgrounds.

Endovalley
I'm not sure if this is the correct location (I can't seem to pinpoint it online) but if it is, this is a really great area for a picnic. Flat with small, somewhat secluded areas near the river where the water is calmer. I can picture the area in my head but again, I'm not sure if Endovalley is the right spot. I think it's the place I'm thinking of based on its map location and a few of the pictures on Google Maps, but I'm not completely positive. Glad I can be specific....


Other miscellaneous info
There's a decent-sized Safeway in town that will have almost everything you'll need. It's east (and slightly north) of downtown not far from the Stanley Hotel. They occasionally run out of certain things for a brief period depending on the tourist rush, but it's a pretty well-run store for a town the size of Estes.
 
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Random thought - when in September are you all looking at heading up there? During the weekend after Labor Day, every single year, they host an incredible Scottish/Irish festival. If you all were planning to be up there during that time, book a room ASAP and let me know - I will have a few more recs. If not, no worries.
 
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RMNP reservations are now standard operating procedure, unfortunately.

The good news is that they only run to early October and if you don’t intended to go to Bear Lake, you can pretty easily enter the park in the morning before the reservation restrictions start at 9am.
 
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Random thought - when in September are you all looking at heading up there? During the weekend after Labor Day, every single year, they host an incredible Scottish/Irish festival. If you all were planning to be up there during that time, book a room ASAP and let me know - I will have a few more recs. If not, no worries.
That's the exact time we are thinking. Might have to check that out.
 
That's the exact time we are thinking. Might have to check that out.

I’ve never gone to that festival but I’ve heard good things about it.

One thing I do know is that a lot of people show up for it so plan ahead if that’s happening when you intend to be in Estes. Also note that there’s not a lot of parking near downtown.
 
I’ve never gone to that festival but I’ve heard good things about it.

One thing I do know is that a lot of people show up for it so plan ahead if that’s happening when you intend to be in Estes. Also note that there’s not a lot of parking near downtown.
Very true.

@EvilPOKES definitely book a room soon, it will be busy that weekend. That's also a really fun weekend to be there.

Saturday morning of that weekend they do a big parade through downtown Estes that's a lot of fun to watch. Lots of bagpipe bands, dogs of the Scottish Isles, etc. I would highly recommend the parade, if nothing else, that weekend. There's always pipe bands from multiple states away, and typically a few bands from other countries. But like @trapped_in_tx mentioned, parking near downtown will be very limited that weekend, and especially that morning. Definitely plan ahead.

The rest of the weekend (both Saturday and Sunday), the festival moves to the fairgrounds on the far eastern side of town near the lake. Parking for that is still somewhat limited, but in much better shape than downtown. The festival itself is a good time - all sorts of competitions including bagpipe bands, traditional Scottish festival events (throwing the caber, etc.), and lots of Scottish/Irish crafts. If you have any heritage from that part of the world that you're aware of, you're bound to find your family's pattern on a kilt. There's also a fair amount of Scotch to taste, which has been very convenient in the past when the weather hasn't cooperated. The festival also usually has 1-3 bands that are a combo of rock/bagpipes - a fun combo to see live.

That's a really fun weekend to be in Estes. In all the years I've been to that festival, my only bad memory is watching the ESPN gamecast on my phone the day we lost to Central Michigan. I had a bit more Scotch than usual that day.
 
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Just a heads up.....Park Service just announced Mammoth Hot Springs hotel and guest centers will reopen on July 1. This includes all services for north park entrance will be available.
 
Yes, love fly fishing. However, since I’ll have the family with me, this won’t be a fishing trip unfortunately.
 
Yes, love fly fishing. However, since I’ll have the family with me, this won’t be a fishing trip unfortunately.

Best decision I ever made was getting my son into all kinds of fishing. Fly fishing was the last of the disciplines for him to get into at age 10…but now he’s 14 and every trip has some fishing component to it. My daughter and wife get to spend some time together while we fish. Most of the time, everyone ends up happy.

Hell, we are in Sweden right now and he and I fished for about 3 hours yesterday while they shopped. It was perfect.
 
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