Final rundown: 7 breweries in 5 days. That includes Hop Cat, which is a brew-pub, but they have a ton of Michigan beers, as well as other beers, mostly from the Midwest and NE, on tap and in bottle. We didn't drink any of Hop Cat's own brews, so maybe that doesn't count. But we did go to both the main brewery and the downtown Holland taproom/restaurant for New Holland. New Holland's main facility is also a distillery, so that's a bonus. We also went to Founder's 3 times.
Here's the rundown of where we visited:
- Bell's in Kalamazoo
- Dark Horse in Marshall, MI
- Founder's in downtown Grand Rapids
- Brewery Vivant, south of downtown Grand Rapids
- New Holland Brewing /Distillery in Holland, MI, along with the pub in downtown Holland
- Hopcat in downtown Grand Rapids
- Grand Rapids Brewing in downtown Grand Rapids
First, my overall impressions of the trip are that people in Western Michigan are overwhelmingly friendly. Or maybe people that are drawn to breweries are. We talked to a guy at Dark Horse who is regional manager for Old Chicago pizza restaurants and he was giving all kinds of tips on places to visit (not just breweries) and was calling his administrative assistant to ask her about breweries because he isn't really a beer geek, but she is. He also talked football with us because this was lunchtime the day of our game so we were wearing oSu gear. Very nice guy. Talked to several other nice fellas there too.
We also talked to a biker dude at the outside bar at Founders who was obviously a well known regular there who gave us a bunch of good tips on where to go (unfortunately we weren't able to hit them all). One of his recommendations that we didn't get to was Perrin, which you guys had mentioned as well.
And the tour guides and everyone at New Holland were all super friendly and really into beer and talking about other breweries. That is really an up and coming brewery.
I really liked the areas we visited too. Downtown Holland is really nice. The area of Holland down by the lakefront was a beautiful place to visit too. It was hot while we were there but Lake Michigan was still fairly chilly, although you could easily still swim. We went to Holland State Park, the Tunnel Park and a giant sand dune with a boardwalk/stairway to the top called Mount Pisgah.
Grand Rapids has really cool areas downtown too.
We hiked about 8 miles yesterday at the Kent Trails, near Grand Rapids. There are trails everywhere in the area. It was pretty dang hot in the area most of our trip, 90 yesterday, and very humid, so that was about all we had in us. In retrospect probably should have planned on trying to go up a bit further north on the coast of Lake Michigan.
We took the northern route across from Mt Pleasant (we stayed there Thursday after the game) back to Grand Rapids, which took us right through the heart of Michigan's Amish country. We saw many horse drawn carriages and several spotsin the road covered in horse crap. It was a lovely, green rural area really, though.
The breweries -
Bells: nice taproom, sort of on the fringe of downtown Kalamazoo. The food is good. As I mentioned before, I was slightly disappointed in their beers, the ones I'd never had. But, they had a sour called The Wild One, that was new for me, that was quite tasty indeed. They have a nice open beer garden in back behind a fence. There were lots of people out there, some families. We enjoyed a beer out there before walking back to our hotel. A good breakfast spot in Kalamazoo, near the campus of Western Michigan, is East Egg.
Dark Horse: a funky joint on the edge of downtown Marshall, Michigan in a sort of industrial area. Very divey, with a great assortment of beers, and they have a few non Dark Horse beers as well. The Cocoa Bourbon Nibbler stout I mentioned before was dang good and so was Scotty Karate (scotch ale, with a kick). We had eaten a late and big breakfast at East Egg, so didn't eat there, but it looked amazing and the guy that befriended us at the bar said the food isreally good. Dark Horse has 4,000+ individualized ceramic mugs hanging from the ceiling in numerical order. Demand for them is such (not to mention space limitations) that they only give out a limited number once a year and one has to wait in line to get one. My wife loved their Raspberry Ale.
Founders: this place is a simply amazing Mecca for the beer geek. There are multiple outside and inside area to sit in. 4 bars, including 1 outside. The food is mostly sandwiches and appetizers but is quite good. They have music most weekend nights, yesterday evening was a great, fun show by the Grand Rapids Jazz Orchestra. Wife loved Blushing Monk, another Raspberry Belgian. We had it here in OK in large format bottles early this year or late last. Bartender told her they are about out, first time they'd brewed it in about 6 years per him. They had a taproom only brew I liked a lot called Mosaic Promise. Also liked the Pale Ale which I don't recall seeing in OK. Oh, yeah, they had Centennial on Nitro and it was quite different and very good that way. The bartender said the day we were there was the first time they'd done that particular beer on nitro. I also had several other different beers: Big Luscious, Breakfast Stout, Porter, Pale Joe. My wife also had the Rubaeus on nitro. Most definitely worth a visit, a must if in the area.
Brewery Vivant: we walked the mile + from Founders down to BV ( it was hot too). We got there just as a family of 4 was knocking on the door to attempt to get them to open a 2nd time. Unbeknownst to us, they didn't open that day (Friday) until 3. In the first of several serendipitous moments on our trip, it was straight up 3 PM when we walked up and they opened the doors of the former chapel to let us in. It's a cool place, also with very good food. The chapel setting, complete with huge stained glass window is a good fit with their beers which are all Belgian/country French styles. Their farmhouse, called Farmhand, was outstanding. A pumpkin tart was pretty good. That's not my thing, but I felt compelled to try it for some reason. The staff here were certainly nice enough, but I kind of sensed a hipster superiority vibe with the bartender chick, but she was all right.
New Holland: serendipitous moment #2 occurred here. We had been out at Mt Pisgah and visiting Lake Michigan all morning and decided to go visit New Holland. We thought we were going to the brewery and taproom. We were mistaken. We walked in at the brewery just as a tour was about to start and some other people who were supposed to do the tour had bailed. So, we did it. It is about 1 1/2 - 2 hours and well worth your time. There is no taproom there (it's in the heart of beautiful downtown Holland), but you get to sample 4 different beer styles and as many of their distilled spirits as you want. They are quite generous with extra samples if you want any. I was REALLY taken with this place, thanks to all who recommended it. Their Dragon's Milk Bourbon aged Barrel Stout is EASILY the best barrel aged beer I've ever tasted. It is so much smoother than most beers of the type. You get the bourbon barrel favors, with some nice vanilla, but the beer isn't overpowered by it. For those of you who live where New Holland is available (I don't), they are coming out with 4 different limited bottlings of Dragon's Milk around the first week of this December. Their Monkey King Saison was very good too. Their beer barrel Bourbon was FANTASTIC! We went to the taproom downtown too. Nice spot, with a huge bar. There were other restaurants and breweries in the area. We didn't probably do this place justice. It was busy on a Saturday afternoon. It was a little cooler that day so we sat outside in the beer garden and drank mostly water and a small flight to share. They have AWESOME loaded cheese fries with a coney sauce made of lamb and beef with absolutely no grease.
Hopcat: sweet little spot in downtown Grand Rapids lots of cool beer signs and memorabilia. They do brew their own beer, but it's mainly known for an extensive list of taps and a very extensive list of bottled beers. I got the AV The Kimmie, the Yink and the Holy Gose, because I'd never had it on tap. Tasty!
I went to use the restroom and that's when serendipitous event #3 occurred. I heard some hollering from out in the bar area as I was washing my hands. When I walked out, THE STANLEY CUP was perched on a table next to the bar. Several guys who work for the Black Hawks are from Grand Rapids, including the team's equipment manager, and they had the Cup for the weekend and were in the midst of a whirlwind bar hop around the area with it. Those Midwestern folks were going absolutely bananas over the Stanley Cup. They let anyone touch it who wanted to (no moving it though) and allowed anyone and everyone who wanted to to take a picture with the cup. I heard one college age girl say she was going to straddle it if she could. After about 15 surreal minutes they whisked the cup out the back door and were on to the next bar. I'll see if I can get my wife's pics posted later.
Grand Rapids Brewing: this place is about 3 doors down from Hopcat. It is a perfectly respectable brewpub that would be considered great in many towns in America. Here it was nothing special after what we previously experienced. I tried a Cherry ale because it was brewed from local Michigan cherries. It was good.
So, a great trip (glad we won the football game!). Well worth it for the beer geek and we missed many, many fine breweries in the area. It's easy to see why Grand Rapids bills itself as Beer City USA. On Sunday evening (yesterday) at 6 ish, with the temp at 90, Founders was at capacity, inside and out.