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Bows

A

anon_ph7vrsh7abnty

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Seeimg a bunch on Craigslist for 100-175.

What should I be looking for? Anything to avoid?
Posted from Rivals Mobile
 
Get one with good letoff, and the proper fit/draw length. Go somewhere and get measured. I am not a used bow fan unless you know what you are getting. Get one as a package for $375-500 that has sights, quiver, etc. It will last you as long as you want it to. Buy it from a pro-shop where they will help you set it up, shoot correctly, etc. Post some options on here and will be glad to give you my opinion.

Also remember, used bows are not worth a penny. Buy a new bow for $900 and then take it back the next day to see what they offer you for it. It will astound you.
 
Looking for a distinction in your response.

You said a good bow will last you a while, but are opposed to used.

What about used makes you nervous? Is the thinking that someone is getting rid of it because it sucks, defective, etc?

Thanks a ton for your responses to all my questions.


Why I'm looking at used:

It's how I starting cycling. I didn't want to drop a bunch of cash before I knew I was good enough and passionate enough to upgrade. I'm carrying that same thought into this. If a bow is good enough to kill if I have the skill, I'll be OK if it is a bit cumbersome at first.
Posted from Rivals Mobile
 
Adver,

If you can find a true archery shop close to you, many of them sell used bows. I would go that route since they will be able to properly size you and advise as to what kind of condition the used inventory is.

I just got a bow and have a couple of buddies teaching me how to use it correctly. Haven't hunted with it yet, need to practice more, but it helps to talk to people who know what they are talking about and it helps to have those people watch you shoot.
Posted from Rivals Mobile
 
Used bows need to have the cams, limbs, and pins inspected very carefully before purchasing. Some cracks in limbs are almost impossible to detect.
Posted from wireless.rivals.com[/URL]
 
Originally posted by Pokes15:
Used bows need to have the cams, limbs, and pins inspected very carefully before purchasing. Some cracks in limbs are almost impossible to detect.

Posted from wireless.rivals.com
This,

I would not have problems buying a used bow for say bowhunting for $100-150 bucks (although I just use my old ones) but would not spend more than that unless I knew the person, what he had, pro shop guaranteed it etc. I would buy used kids bows for youth.

Again, go to archerytalk.com and look at the reviews. Many people post about the best bows under $500, 400, etc. Guys give their honest opinions on there and know their stuff.
Originally posted by Pokes15:
Used bows need to have the cams, limbs, and pins inspected very carefully before purchasing. Some cracks in limbs are almost impossible to detect.

Posted from wireless.rivals.com
 
I started bowhunting in 76. It is amazing how different things are now. Almost nobody did it, it was considered a joke by many until I brought my first buck in to the firedept to check it in. There was a stir then. Now it is very common.

There are many great bow companies now. For hunting, most any bow is fast enough so don't get on that wagon. What I prefer is a axle to axle length that is forgiving, usually in the 32-34 inch ranch (many are 30 inches or therabouts), has a brace height of greater than 7, and the closer to 8 the better, 80% letoff, but really msot are 75-80% and you can hold them all day. My top priority is that the draw cycle is smooth and that there is little to no hand shock when released. New bow techology has quite a few bows in this category. I bought my bow used, and it was a year old at the time: It is great! I just put a new string on it and it shoots lights out to 45-50 yards. (I don't recommend people shoot quite that far, but I can hit a 4 inch dot 4/5 times if thre is no wind and I have time. A couple of friends I know can't do that with their muzzleloaders) Hunting often is less than ideal conditions. I shoot a Bowtech Liberty set at 62 lbs, but I may lower the poundage next year a bit. I have plenty of speed, but there are many much faster, few are more accurate.

Matthews, PSE, Archery Research, Hoyt, Bowtech/Diamond, Bear, and others are all good companies and if you can just get one of their mid range bows with the specs I mention above, they should be able to shoot very well if set up and tuned correctly. Don't worry about speed because all of the bows mentioned will shoot IBO over 300 fps, which mean with the average hunting arrow (heavier than IBO) will still shoot plenty flat.

So I agree with the guys on here that a bowshop, or really knowledgable bowhunters in your area can help you pick out something fairly economical that will last for many years. I"m about due a new bow, but with the way it's shooting, it's hard for me to rationalize 900 bucks for the bow I would get if I replaced it. Where are you located?
 
I'll also add that, if my "starter" bow is more than 200, my dream will be dead.

I'd like to start hunting for game, but I don't have the game to start hunting for another wife.
 
If you want something in that range I would look for a older mathews bow like a LX or MQ32. Try to find one that has had the strings replaced or someone bought and really didn't use much. There are alot of good bows made today, but past about 7 years back Mathews and Hoyt were ahead of everybody else. To find a bow in that price range your going to be looking at bows from the early 2000s. Another option would be buying a traditional bow. You can find good older model bear recurves for around that price. Again need to inspect them well. Traditional archery is tougher and a much steeper learning curve, but much more fun to shoot IMO.
 
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